top of page

Winter Houseplant Survival Guide: What Indoor Plant Parents Need to Know

Expert Do’s and Don’ts from the University of Minnesota Extension

By Diana Pierce, Jan. 7th, 2026

Kalanchoe rainbow of colors at garden center. Photo: Diana Pierce
Kalanchoe rainbow of colors at garden center. Photo: Diana Pierce

Winter is tough on indoor plants.

It’s not because we’re doing everything wrong, but because light, humidity, and routines quietly change after the holidays. Drooping leaves, pale growth, or plants that seem “stuck” are common winter signals, not failures.


To help make sense of these winter signals, I turned to Laura Irish-Hanson, a University of Minnesota Extension Horticulture Educator, to break down what actually matters right now. Plus, what can wait until spring.


If you want a simple reference you can save or print, keep reading.

I’ve created a Winter Houseplant Survival Cheat Sheet that pulls together the most important winter care adjustments which are light, watering, humidity, temperature, and common mistakes to avoid. But FIRST-


THREE CHANGES THAT MAKE THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE

  1. Add a simple LED grow light (12-16 hours/day prevents stretching).

  2. Learn the “lift test” instead of relying on your finger to check soil.

  3. Move plants 3-4 inches away from cold windows (even if it means less light).


    Read on for the complete winter survival guide ↓


1. Light: The #1 Winter Stressor

Snake Plant. Photo: Diana Pierce
Snake Plant. Photo: Diana Pierce

Most classic houseplants—snake plant, pothos, philodendron, dracaena—are naturally low-light plants and handle Minnesota winters beautifully.


But plants we pamper outside all summer struggle indoors.


Plants that need extra winter light:

  • Cacti & succulents (expect stretching within 4-6 weeks)

  • Citrus (may drop leaves or stop flowering)

  • Potted herbs (yes, even rosemary!)

  • Some orchids

Yes, you really can grow Rosemary indoors. Photo: Diana Pierce
Yes, you really can grow Rosemary indoors. Photo: Diana Pierce

These plants develop legginess—stretched, spindly stems reaching for light. Even a south-facing Minnesota window doesn’t supply the intensity they need in January.


Laura- “Most medium- to high-light plants will need some form of artificial light to truly thrive.”

The solution: LED grow lights

  • Run 12-16 hours/day for most plants

  • African violets need 16 hours light + 8 hours darkness (triggers blooms)

  • Keep lights close to plant canopy—LEDs stay cool

  • Use a timer so you don’t have to remember daily


Laura’s setup? Retrofitted shop lights—nothing fancy, just effective.

LED light in Diana’s kitchen. Photo: Diana Pierce
LED light in Diana’s kitchen. Photo: Diana Pierce

Here’s a pic of my new LED light. Boy, do my orchids love this boost.


2. The Cold Window Problem

Most houseplants are happy at 65-75°F—right where Minnesota homes stay. But winter damage comes from cold surfaces, not air temperature.

Keep plants 3-4 inches away from:

  • Exterior windows

  • Exterior walls

  • Drafty doors

Trade-off: Moving plants from windows = less light. That’s when you add grow lights or swap to lower-light species.


3. The Watering Paradox

African Violets. Photo: Diana Pierce
African Violets. Photo: Diana Pierce

Surprising but true: You’ll water MORE in winter. Forced-air heat dries soil faster than summer conditions.


Skip the moisture meter. Laura doesn’t use them—they’re often inaccurate in larger pots.


Use the lift test instead:

  1. Water plant thoroughly

  2. Lift the pot—notice the weight

Check every few days:

  1. Heavy = just watered, leave it

  2. Light = time to water

  3. Medium = check in 2-3 days


When in doubt, wait. Underwatering is easier to fix than overwatering.


What about humidity?

Minnesota winter air drops to 10-20% humidity (plants prefer 40-60%).

What doesn’t work: Misting, pebble trays


What does work:

  • Humidifier near plant cluster

  • Group plants together

  • Bathroom placement for ferns and orchids


4. Should You Fertilize in Winter?

Pothos. Photo: Diana Pierce
Pothos. Photo: Diana Pierce

Yes—most houseplants aren’t truly dormant indoors. They keep growing with steady temperatures.


Laura’s guidelines:

  • Normal schedule if watering frequency unchanged

  • Half-strength if light has decreased

  • More frequent if watering more often (nutrients flush out faster).


Laura uses one basic 10-10-10 fertilizer for all 100+ of her houseplants. No specialty mixes needed.

Laura- “Plants don’t know the difference between organic and synthetic. What matters is the nutrient form and release rate."


5. That Cloud of Tiny Flies?

The 5-minute fungus gnat fix:


Add ⅓-½ inch of coarse horticultural sand on top of your potting soil.


Why it works:

  • Gnats won’t lay eggs in dry sand

  • Sand dries faster than soil

  • Creates a barrier

Important: Use coarse, irregular sand—NOT play sand (it compacts).


Other winter pests:

  • Spider mites: Isolate plant, increase humidity

Scale insects: Wipe off with rubbing alcohol on cotton swab


6. Easiest Plants for Minnesota Winters

A collection of easy growing succulents. Photo: Diana Pierce
A collection of easy growing succulents. Photo: Diana Pierce

Starting out (or starting over)? Laura’s most forgiving picks:


  • Snake plant — Nearly indestructible

  • Pothos — Adapts to almost any light

  • Philodendron — Forgiving and fast-growing

  • Spider plant — Thrives on neglect

  • Dracaena — Slow but steady


Beginner succulent: Jade plant (more forgiving than most)


7. The One Thing That Makes the Biggest Difference

Philodendron. Photo: Diana Pierce
Philodendron. Photo: Diana Pierce

"Have fun. Pay attention. Notice what’s changing,” Laura says.


Her daily winter ritual (and now mine):


-Turn each plant a quarter turn

-Lift three pots Look for one new leaf or one problem spot

Laura- “Talking to your plants doesn’t make them grow—but your attention does.”


It’s not about having a green thumb. It’s about being present.


QUICK DIAGNOSTIC: WHAT YOUR PLANT IS TELLING YOU

  • Stretched stems → Not enough light

  • Brown leaf tips → Humidity too low

  • Yellow, droopy leaves → Overwatering or cold stress

  • Leaf drop near window → Move 3-4” away

  • Tiny flies → Add sand layer

  • Fine webbing → Spider mites (isolate + humidity)


WANT A REFERENCE GUIDE?

Download my free Winter Houseplant Care Cheat Sheet—all of Laura’s key advice condensed into one quickly scannable page.


GOT A WINTER HOUSEPLANT QUESTION?

Spider Plant. Photo: Diana Pierce
Spider Plant. Photo: Diana Pierce

Send me your plant problems, pest mysteries, or winter care questions. I’ll compile the most common issues and work with Laura to answer them in a future newsletter.


Email me: [your email]

Subject line: Winter Plant Question


Your questions help shape future Bloom With Me content.


WHAT’S NEXT IN THIS SERIES

Laura and I will be chatting quarterly throughout 2026:

  • Spring: Starting Seeds Indoors (March)

  • Summer: Container Garden Success (June)

  • Fall: Bringing Plants Indoors Without Bringing Pests (September)


Stay subscribed at DianaPierce.com to get each guide delivered to your inbox.


Quote of the day -“The land knows you, even when you are lost.

– ROBIN WALL KIMMERER


Diana











© 2026 Diana Pierce


 
 
 

Comments


©2026  Diana Pierce  | Photographer & Garden Storyteller

bottom of page